These things are apparently programmed from the factory to go off only in the middle of the night. The beeping is just loud enough that you can't just sleep through it. And the darn beeping occurs with too much of a delay so that when you do get up to find it, it takes way too long in the middle of the night to triangulate and figure out which one you have to take down so that you can go back to sleep and deal with it in the morning. It's like some torture game of hide and seek. By the time you figure out which one is malfunctioning, you've been awake and annoyed long enough that you're pretty much now wide awake. Is it some kind of North Korean/Russian plot to destroy the lives of normal mundane US citizens through intermittent sleep deprivation? First the election, now this.
One chirp every 3-4 minutes means that the 9V back up battery is dead. Three chirps that go off every 3-4 minutes indicates that the detector as a whole is malfunctioning. Replacing the battery doesn't do anything. I've tried dusting them out with an air gun but usually doesn't work. Most authorities recommend replacing these things about ever 5-10 yrs or so. So far, about 5 years is about how long these have lasted in my house, and over the past several months I've been replacing one after the other. I've lost enough sleep on random nights over the past several weeks that I'm just going to replace all the rest of the ones in my house and just move on with my life.
As a bonus annoying factor, the 9V battery lasts about 4 yrs. I just went through and replaced all the batteries less than 9 months ago, and now I'm going around replacing the whole darn thing. So that was a nice waste of money, especially since the new detectors come with new 9V batteries and now I have a small stockpile of partially used 9V batteries.
The only good thing is that they are easy to replace, and much cheaper on Amazon than the local brick and mortar stores. And thankfully, I haven't had one go off because of a house fire or carbon monoxide buildup, so I can't comment on their effectiveness, but I guess it's one of those things you just have to assume will work when it needs to... like the airbag in your car.
This is the ONLY smoke detector that won't give false alarms in the kitchen! If your smoke alarms go off when you cook, you *need* a photoelectric alarm.
I tried 2 different ones from the store besides the one that came with my house, all used ionizing radiation to detect fires (the most common technology). One was even a $50 model that said it had some intelligent way of reducing false alarms....in all cases, the smoke detectors would infallibly go off if I tried cooking a large package of bacon. They went off for other things too, but bacon was the sure-fire way to set them off. So, obviously, I put this to the test with bacon. To the dismay of my family's arteries, I cooked three entire packages in a row and even had the fan above the stove off. This thing didn't go off at all. I've had it in place for about 2 months now since and it has only gone off once - when I made it go off by intentionally burning a small piece of wood near it to ensure it wasn't defective.
EDIT: Make that 4 months now! And it just passed the entire-day-of-Thanksgiving-cooking test! Normally we'd automatically take down the old fire alarm on Thanksgiving day but this sucker didn't go off even once! ...Thank you!
I have 6 hardwired smoke alarms in my home that are past due to be replaced. I wanted to add the protection of a CO detector as well. I was also wanting a plug and play replacement that would work with my existing detectors because I plan on replacing a few ever month or so until they are all replaced. I bought one of them to start with the upstairs hallway outside of all the bedrooms. It was a direct replacement and used the same plug as the old one pictured above. I could have even used the same mounting plate but did not because it was old and yellow. After removing the old one I only had to back out the screws a few turns to remove the mount. Installed the new mount, plugged in the new detector using the existing plug, and twisted it on to the mount. I tested it and it alerted all the other old detectors in the house. 5 min install time. I included a picture of the new one and also the old one so you can see the type of plug it uses. The last picture is the new plug sitting on then old detector to show what type of plug it uses which in my case was the exactly the same.
Purchased these to replace older hardwired smoke alarms. Also wanted to add carbon monoxide testing too as we have a gas furnace. Did not need to change the power connectors as they were the same as the existing units (which were First Alert). These take 2 @ AA batteries so they continue to work if AC power is lost. Like that they are AA as the older ones used 9v and they NEVER seemed to have a solid connection - would start to chirp even though batteries were good. Make sure to use lithium batteries so you don't have to worry about changing them every year (unless that doesn't bother you).
Make sure you look at how old your existing smoke alarms are as the sensors are usually rated at 7 - 10 years. So you need to replace them to maintain protection.
It took months to select smoke detectors. I wish companies would just tell you the facts, short and sweet (i.e., this is ion, it's used for detecting...) And the instructions! I had to read the fine print 2-3 times, but I did install them myself. If it helps, I can tell you that removing one out of five in a line of integrated/connected-together detectors doesn't set them all off.
Other positive, their consumer support uses actual people that are knowledgeable, and you can understand them. They patiently answered my questions and steered me in the right direction. They have a long guarantee period.
I would encourage reading the instructions, it's not as simple as just connecting the wires; all those little beep sequences and flashing lights mean something. But the instructions are long and somewhat confusing to the non-electric savvy person so relax with your coffee/tea and read through them, then plan plenty of time so you don't get too frustrated. Or is that just me? I was thrilled when they all worked (tested every one,) and they are green-light-on and quiet. Happy little sleeping babies. With ten year batteries in all (that's another tip, ten year detectors are the same as the other ones but with a ten year battery--you don't have to "lock" it). At least that's true in my case. So, hopefully, I'm good and quiet for ten years!
Feature Product
- Keep your family safe with this 6-pack of hardwired smoke and carbon monoxide alarms; the battery backup means constant monitoring, even if there's a power failure
- Features electrochemical Carbon Monoxide sensing technology as well as a photoelectric sensor equipped with Optipath 360 technology that enhances detection with 360-degree access and reliably detects smoke from smoldering fires
- In case of danger, the loud spread-spectrum alarm is designed to be heard easily by even those with some hearing issues
- Can connect to other compatible BRK or First Alert detectors, to ensure all alarms will sound when threat is detected
- 10-year limited warranty; equipped with end-of-life signal chirp, so you know when it's time to replace the unit for your safety
- Rigorously tested to meet UL standards
Description
This 6-pack of First Alert BRK SC7010B Hardwire Smoke and Carbon Monoxide Alarms includes battery backups so that they still keep monitoring safety even if there’s a power failure. They're designed for residential use as well as for institutional locations such as hospitals, hotels, dorms and multiple-family dwellings. This alarm is interconnectable and can be linked with up to 18 compatible devices (up to 12 smoke alarms and 6 compatible devices like bells, horns and repeaters) so that when one triggers, all alarms sound. This alarm emits a loud, spread spectrum 85-decibel alarm designed to be heard even by those with some hearing issues.. In addition to electrochemical CO-sensing technology, the detector also features a photoelectric smoke sensor that can help detect slow smoldering fires. One button silences any nuisance alarms, and also tests detector functions, while lights indicate if the alarm detects smoke or carbon monoxide. The latching alarm indicator automatically identifies which unit initiated the alarm, even after the conditions that set off the alarm have subsided. And an end-of-life signal enhances your safety by letting you know when it's time to replace the unit. Hook up to AC power with the “quick-connect" wiring harness for easy installation.
This was a replacement of the same model that was purchased in 2012. A couple of things of note that I think people should know...
. CO alarms need to be replaced every so often. I learned this after hearing about a family that perished because of CO even though they had a detector. Quote from Google search on how often to replace, "The detecting components will lose their effectiveness after 5 to 7 years and may no longer detect carbon monoxide. First Alerts website states: “After 5 years any detector should be replaced with a new CO alarm.” COSTAR recommends replacing their CO alarms every 6 years or sooner."
. My First Alert started beeping suddenly one day, 3 beeps then a minute or two or maybe three, then 3 beeps, over and over again. Battery wasn't the problem. Came to learn it was the "malfunction" code. I'd had the unit for 5 years already, so gladly replaced it. I am grateful the unit notified us!
. Sometimes our detectors have beeps randomly (they are hardwired in our home) and we don't know what's going on - we know it's not a fire or CO because it stops and pauses and starts again. What I've learned is that it's the detector's way of communicating something to us. What I've also learned is that I can never find the darn manual when this happens. So, I have advice...
- Best is to keep the manual in a place you'll remember and can get to quickly. If you are like me, once those beeps start, you'll be instantly on edge and won't be in any state to search all over for a manual from years ago.
- Second best advice when the unit is giving a message, remove it from the base and look on the back. It actually has beep decipher information written on the back.
I do like these First Alert detectors. They are a good quality. However, I do with there was a way to turn the beeps off when it's just a false alarm (kids burning too much incense, for example).
Almost a year ago now, I ripped out all of the smoke and CO detectors in my house. I replaced them all with hard-wired detectors during a home remodel in accordance with NFPA guidelines (e.g. one in every sleeping quarter, gathering area, outside the door of every sleeping area, bottom/top of every stair, etc). The hard part was crawling around in unfinished areas of the house to run wire everywhere: once I had 12/3 NM-B in every ceiling box, wiring up these detectors was quick and easy.
Each detector has a base that screws onto the junction box. It is a plastic flange that covers a quarter inch or so around the box, helping to mask the edges of the paint job or any irregularities in the drywall cutting. The wire hardness snaps into the detector, which then twists onto the flange. It comes with a label where you can write the data of install for future reference. It looks great compared to your Home Depot special, where you are lucky to get more than two that are compatible with each other.
So far I have had zero false alarms after 8+ months of being installed. They have done better than the old ones that nuisance tripped by frying bacon - and the new ones are installed close to the old ones. Hitting the test button, they all go off within a second or two and are LOUD. They could wake the dead, which is important because I may as well be dead when I am sleeping. A train could smash its way through the house and I would not wake up. These things are loud enough to make my ears hurt more than a rock concert. I have burned a few candles near them and they have not triggered, but have not tried with actual fires, e.g. burning a 2x4 close by.
It seems like smoke detectors have gone downhill lately, but these seem to work well enough based on my own observation and on other reviews.
My old First Alert detectors reached end of life and started the annoying chirping and alarms. Nothing is more motivating to resolve than a problem that wakes up the family in the middle of the night!
Selected these hard-wired units because they use two AA batteries for backup power, not the single 9-volt batteries traditionally used in smoke detectors. Also wanted a photo-electric sensor not pizo electric. Nice feature that they talk and configurable to tell you what room the unit is next to. This keeps you from searching for the problem when you have 6 units with a comm wire connecting them all.
My biggest complaint is that the units fit, but do not lock into the old First Alert base plates. Also, the newer mounting plates have a smaller outside diameter that, when installed, reveal a ring of the old color wall color underneath. Now I have to find the touch-up paint! It would also be ideal if this model communicated with a hub (like my Wink hub) to notify me by text or e-mail when something is in alarm.
This is a good addition to a network of hardwired interconnected smoke and CO2 detectors. With the separate base it is easy to install and the 2 each AA battery compartment is better than the traditional 9 volt type. Note that the mounting base size for this unit is different than First Alert Smoke Detectors. You will have to replace the mounting base with the base included with this unit if you are upgrading. The connector for A/C power and interconnection to other First Alert units is the same as most other First Alert devices which makes upgrading easy.
This unit should offer a "Low volume programming mode" that can be enabled for a 5 minutes during installation-setup.
My only issue with this unit is setting up the voice announcement that specifies the location of each unit. You must be close enough to this unit to press the button during the programming - so that means up on a ladder, especially for my high ceilings. Even with airplane earplugs the volume becomes too painful at that distance.
These are solid units, featuring protective dust covers for use in new construction. Fortunately, I didn't need them.
I bought a combination unit to replace the same brand SA710 smoke (only) detectors installed about 10 years ago -- their recommended lifespan. Before buying more units, I wanted to check compatibility with the existing ceiling boxes, wiring pigtails and mounting brackets.
I was gratified to find basic layouts and pigtails the same. Bracket latching differs, however, so I had to use the new mounting bracket.
I did manage to install the new mounting bracket without modifying my old ceiling box. However, the position of bracket mounting screw holes was slightly different. That caused enough aggravation to award four stars instead of five. Given the relatively brief lifespan of the units, it would be best if all new mounting brackets were identical.